Improvement in boots and shoes



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ILPETERS, PHO'rO-LHMOGRAPHER. WASHINGTON. D C

UNITED STATES PATENT OEEICE.

`GORDON MUKAY, OF BOSTON, MASSA(,ll'lllSETTS.

IMPROVEMENT IN BOOTS AND SHOES.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 35,105, dated April 29, 1362.

.T0 @ZZ whom it may con/cern.'

Be it known that l', GORDON MoKA i', ot the city ot Boston, Yin the county ot' Suttolk and Sta-tie of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful` Improvements in the Construction oi". `Boots and Shoes; and l do hereby l declare that the following, taken in connection with the drawings which accompany and torni part ot' this specification, Yis a i'lescription of iiiy invention suliieient to enable those skilled in the art; to practice it.

My invention is subordinate to and is an improvement upon the inventions patented to Lyman R. Blake, August lat, i860, which patents are numbered 29,561 and 20,562; and it relates to the constiiiei'ilion of' boots and shoes by sewing in such a manner as greatly to increase the durability thereot'.

My invention, like those patented as at'oresaid,is limited to thatpartoi the construction ot' boots and slices which appertains to the sewing' thereon pertornier'l in connection with the soles.

lt consists in (piilting the sole willi a seam or seams toi-med ot' a succession of stitchiiss known as the chain or tambour stitch, each of which passes tliroiigli thc different layers ot which the sole is composed and uniting them together.

'llie object ot' my invention is to imite thoroughly the dit'tereiit parts or layers of which a sole may be composed, and tor the following reasons:

First, beca-use pieces ot leather-such as are usually wasted-niay be econoinized and worked up into the middle portion ol' the sole and made to contribute to its proloii ged wear, as well, or very nearly so, as would the occupation of the saine space by pieces oli' leather large enough to coverithe entire surface ot sented by line Z Z.

the sole or a large portion thereot'. It may be here remarked that it is obvious that when all of the material ot' the sole secured together by stitches placed close together and passing entirely through the sole from the inside to the outside, the pieces which constitute the middle portion ot' the sole will bc retained in their places after the outer layer of the sole is worn away, and the boot or shoe may be worn without repairs to the sole till this is worn away quite to the vamp; but where the parts of the sole are held together at the edge only when thc outer layer worn away the central portion ot' the sole, which iS formed otpieces ot' less surface than tap-soles, drops from thc sole or gapes open, and unless the shoe is mended by resttilring the outer part of the sole it is unfit for further wear.

Second, because movement ot' one part ot.'l the sole on another part thereof, by which the annoyance called spieaking is produced, is prevented.

rl`hird, because the increased resistance to wear which quilt ing the outer thickness of the sole only is found by experience to add thereto, is extended through the whole material of the sol e instead of. being' comparatively super ti' cial, is the case wi th quilting so termed, as ordinarily practiceifl, such practice being to quilt or sew through the outer sole before it is secured to the boot or shoe.

Referring to the drawings, Figure l shows in plan a sole embodying iny invention. Fig. 2 a crosssection taken through a boot or shoe on the line. X X, Fig. 1, showing a sole constructed ot.' an inner, an outer, and a iniddle sole or layers, with filling-iii pieces between the inner and middle sole, said filling bein for the purpose ot occupying the space left between the edges of the vamp where drawn over the inner sole. Fig. 3 is a similar crosseseetion to that shown by Fig. 2, but illustrates a different construction oti sole. Instead of a whole middle sole being used, a substitute is iliade by a welt or runner around the edge, and the inner space is filled with pieces, econoinizing the pieces of leather made in cutting up stock.

In Fig. l a double seani is shown extending entirely around the sole, except under the heel, the i'ront. boundary ot' which is repre- Tlie quilting is represented as being made in one continuous seam and only through the ball or tread of the shoe and within the two outer seams. lt is not necessary, however, that the quilting should be made in a continuous seam, and it may be extended over the entire su rface ot' the sole; but as the outer sole at the shank is subjected to lout very little, if any, wear, it is not practically of much benefit to quilt the sole iii that part. In both Figs. 2 and 3 the two outside seams on eaeh Side are shown as passing through the Vamp.

In all the figures, CL represents the Vamp; b, the inner sole; c, the filling-in pieces which occupy the space over the inner sole between the edges of the vamp, and which are used to prevent a sinking or eoneavity in the surface oi' the finished sole; fn., the seam passing through the vamp at the edge of the sole, and s the quilting-seams.

d, Fig. 2, represents the middle sole or layer, of which there may be any suitable number of suitable thickness; e, the outer sole.

m, 3, represents the Welt or ruimer7 which, with the pieces 0, same iigure, make the equivalent or substitute for d.

The arrangement oi the pieces of which the sole is made may be Varied-as, for instance, more or less middle soles maT be used--an'd thus splits may be v\\'orked.up to advantage in low-oost goods, and tap-soles, either outside or beneath the first continuous sole or layer, may be used.

More than tWo rows or seams of the stitehing may be made to pass through the vamp at the edge of the sole, and the seams so passing through the vamp maybe extended round the heel, if desired, and maybe covered from sight in grooves or channelsout from the outer surface of the sole.

I claim as an improvement in the construetion of boots and shoes- The formation of a quilting seam or seams within those used for holding the van-1p, said quilting being formed of chain or tambour stitches passing through the Whole ,thickness of the sole, substantially as and for the purposes set forth.

GORDON M CKAY.

Vitnesses: y

J. B. CROSBY, J. FRANK. NEWMAN. 

